How the Bundesliga can make England cool again

âÂÂTen Euros!â said Uli-Hesse Lichtenberger, after he had stopped coughing long enough to light another cigarette and resume our conversation.

We were standing in the corner of a smoky bar in Gelsenkirchen, two islands in a sea of blue and white Schalke fans. Uli, who could pass for Keith Richardsâ fairer, younger brother, is the author of Tor!, a seminal, entertaining history of German football.

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